Endless Mountain Labradors

Puppy Training

(scroll down for Crate Training Manual)

A few tips from us...making the first days, first weeks an easy transition…

    Your puppy has been bred for superior intelligence and a loyal, cooperative disposition. The combination of good genetics, loving care, and proper correction and training results in a dog that is capable of going far beyond the ‘family pet.”

        I hope that you will enjoy your new puppy, and that he/she will soon feel a part of your family. Have patience, as it may take him several days to adjust to his new surroundings. We would like to offer a few suggestions that we feel will hasten this adjustment:

        Your puppy is now eating solid food. There is no need to grind food, or to add milk , water, or soft dog food. Your dog’s breath, and dental health will be good throughout its life if you do not feed soft dog food. Up until now your pup has had food available at all times, but now that you are house training, you will want to go to a 2/3 times a day feeding regimen so that potty times are predictable (within 5-10 minutes from feeding time...your pup will have his very own exact schedule) If you work during the day, feed once in a.m., allowing puppy to potty before you leave, and once when arriving home for the same reason. If you are home all day, you may feed 3 times daily.   Directions on the dog food bag you will take home with you will instruct you to feed 2-3 cups of food daily (divided over 2-3 feedings).

     Sometimes, a bout with “the runs” will occur after taking puppy home. This can be due to stress of new surroundings, new food, and new water. If puppy continues to eat and drink normally, don’t worry, your problem should solve itself in a few days. Feed white rice till the diarrhea stops, along with bottled water. (Bring a gallon jug for us to fill with our water to take with you) Feed yogurt each day for 4 weeks.   If the diarrhea continues for more than two days, or puppy is not drinking or eating and is lethargic, then poisoning, giardia, or Coccidia (a bacteria picked up by pups) could be the cause...take the pup to your vet! Puppies stool may be soft, but it is when it is WATERY that there is concern. Sometimes stress of traveling can trigger a bout with diarrhea for a couple days.   Be sure pup gets plenty of rest, too, to combat stress.   Take a stool sample to your vet within the first week of pup being home, although your pup has been wormed at least 2 times, pups can re-infest themselves (they are not exactly careful about where they step!) , so you may need more wormer to decrease the symptoms.

    Remember, a fat dog is not a healthy dog, a lighter dog is also easier on the frame of the dog. Allow your vet to evaluate your dogs weight once a year. Do not feed your dog cooked bones, as they can splinter and get lodged in the colon. Limit puppy’s water intake during house training. But do not let puppy dehydrate.

      Your puppy will naturally need to chew while loosing baby teeth, but supply a Nylabone “pooch pacifier” that puppy can chew on and not “chew APART”. (order these bones plus your other puppy supplies from NuVet (use the toll-free number on the next page) This company can supply just about anything you need for puppy, and you’ll get it at least 20% off of retail!!! (see enclosures of recommended list of supplies)

      Rawhides only teach dogs to chew things apart. This will help protect your favorite pair of shoes! If your puppy “play bites”, this is normal, as this is how a litter of puppies play with each other. It sounds weird, but to avoid lots of “hitting” on the nose or yelling, when your pup bites down on you or your child’s finger, take a finger with no nail, and stick it far down his throat, it is humane, yet uncomfortable enough that puppy will think twice next time! Or, pinch the puppy’s lip.   Make sure the whole family is consistent with all training methods, otherwise puppy will learn to respect only the one who carries through with discipline!

       I could write a book on housebreaking alone...but a few suggestions that we might make are:   Take puppy out first thing in morning, after each meal, after nap time, after playing, and last thing before bedtime. Praise him highly when he goes outside, and scold him with a firm “no” when he has an accident in the house. When he eliminates outside, mark the spot, and each time, take him to that same spot, he will soon learn to eliminate whenever taken out and he smells the familiar smell ( you can also train them to go in the same area of your yard this way!) After he has gone outside, let him have the freedom of the house, or a confined area such as a kitchen. A box, dog crate, or kennel will come in handy when you are away or too busy to watch puppy. The puppy will usually be clean and will not want to dirty his box if the box is small enough that he cannot eliminate in one end and sleep in the other. (SEE our insert on Crate Training contained in your puppy care kit) If you can concentrate on the house-training the first two weeks you will not encounter many problems thereafter.

    Do not play rough with your puppy! Don’t let the puppy develop bad habits such as jumping up on you, biting at clothing, etc. You must remember that your dog will weigh from 65-95 pounds at maturity. Some of the bad habits that he develops as a small puppy will certainly not be desirable when he grows older. Don’t let him get by with anything as a puppy that you won’t want him to do when he is older and much larger!

      Although your puppy has been wormed, we suggest you take a sample of his stool to your vet on your first vet visit. Your puppy has had at least its first vaccine as well. The enclosed health record will inform you when to have the puppy’s next shot. Also, rabies should be given at 6 mos old.

    Runny stool can be common the first couple days, due to change of surroundings, but be sure to call your vet if this persists. If puppy is eating fine, drinking plenty of water, and acting alert and playful, there should be no reason for alarm.

      The first night is often the most difficult, you may place a hot water bottle filled with warm water, wrapped in a towel, in puppy’s crate to simulate another pup. Also, if you have played with puppy a lot and held him the first day, take off the shirt you have worn and place in puppy’s crate. Familiar smells always comfort a canine. A ticking alarm clock (heart rhythm), or a clock radio (voice) by crate can also be soothing. Otherwise, hang in there, it won’t be long before your pup will be sleeping through the night on its own. If all else fails...turn on a loud fan in YOUR room to drown out the puppy cries so YOU can get some sleep (ha, ha, ha)

    Of course, your pup will have been wormed and have received its first vaccine when you pick him up. The next vaccine will be due a month from the date of pick up. We recommend that you take your pup to your vet within the first week after receiving him just for a “well puppy check-up” (for your peace of mind, and for your own protection), and to make an appointment for his next vaccine. Also take a stool sample to your vet during this first visit to double-check that puppy is all clear of parasites. Even though we worm the pup, sometimes puppies can re-infest themselves (they are not picky about where they step and what they eat sometimes!) so we have you double-check once puppy arrives at your home and is separated from the rest of the litter.

Common questions asked by people before they pick up their puppy:

· Leash/Collar? Ask any pet store for an “adjustable collar for a lab puppy”, any leash. (pup will be between 10-12 lbs at 7 wks of age) We recommend a GREAT place to get your puppy supplies (crates, bones, toys, bowls, leashes, etc...) at 20% OFF. Our new puppy owners have been very pleased. This is the best-priced dog supply outlet we know! Request a catalog when you call.... (see "nuvet" below)

· Crate? Have a large or small puppy crate for the ride home as well as for house-training as we recommend “crate training” and include a manual in the puppy packet you will get upon pick up date. The two-sided well ventilated kind are great. Only the company "NuVet" carries these (see below!)

· We appreciate cash on the balance due on your pup, or money order/cashier’s check.

· Bowls of Stainless Steel are best. The no-skid bowls are also wonderful! You may want a Puppy/Baby gate.

· Supplement? Due to variation/quality of foods, and that there is not a vaccine available for EVERY canine illness, we require that your puppy be on a supplement recommended by us, which is only available through breeders like Endless Mt. Labradors. (NuVet Canine Plus) Your dog must be on this supplement for your health guarantee to be honored by us. This supplement is important for bone and joint development. You will want to have this supplement on hand before you arrive to pick up your puppy so there is no break in the puppy’s feeding/supplement routine. See ording info below:

You can order any of the above items at less of a price than at pet stores by calling NuVET (800-474-7044) and using my breeder ID code to get your discount ( my # is 58768)

books we recommend:

****The Art of Raising a Puppy, by the Monks of New Skete

Crate Training Manual

“the best way to house-break”

By Liz Palika

Adding a puppy to the household can be a wonderful experience, but the relationship can sour before it even begins if the puppy is ruining carpets and chewing up furniture. There is, however, a training tool that will enable you to train your new companion and avoid disaster—–a crate!

Two types of crates are available. The first type is often made of heavy molded plastic or fiberglass and is used by airlines to transport animals. Plastic crates usually come in two parts, top and bottom, and are easy to disassemble and clean. Wire crates, which provide better ventilation, are also available , but they do not provide the privacy and seclusion puppies need when they retreat to their crates for naps. However, a cover placed over a wire crate works if privacy is needed over circulation. Do not keep a pup’s collar on when placing him in a wire crate, it can catch on the wires when they jump around and there is a danger of strangulation.

Its important that you , the new owner, understand that the crate is not a cage or jail. A crate is your puppy’s own place—it provides them their natural “den” or bed, a place to hide special toys or bones and a refuge from times of stress.

Puppies like to sleep in small, close places. That’s why they curl up under the bed or under a chair, or crawl under the back porch. A crate allows you to use this instinct as a training tool. Begin by choosing a crate size to suit your dog. A large crate to fit your full-size dog is fine if you don’t want a small crate and then another later, but section it off (with boxes or something) to a space that fits your pup enough for it to stand up, stretch, turn around, and lie down comfortable. The idea is you don’t want the pup to sleep in one end and have room to relieve itself in the other...the purpose behind using this crate is to house-train the pup utilizing his instinct to keep his bed clean. He may have one or two accidents, but that will be all!

Introducing the Crate

Introduce your pup to the crate by tossing a treat inside while the pup is watching. Say, “(Name), crate!” and urge the puppy inside. Let the pup grab the treat and come back out. Repeat the action a couple of times; later place the puppy’s dinner inside the crate. Let the puppy eat with the door open, coming and going as it pleases.

When the pup is comfortable going in and out, toss a treat inside the crate, close the door after the pup goes inside. Wait a couple minutes, then open the door. Gradually increase time until the puppy is comfortable with the door being closed.

If your pup throws a temper tantrum when you close the door, do not let the pup out until it is quiet. If you let the pup out when it screams, it will have learned temper tantrums work. Instead, tell the pup, “NO! Quiet!” in a sharp tone of voice.

Put the crate in your bedroom at night so the pup can feel your presence and be reassured that you are near. It is eight hours that the pup can be near you even though you are sleeping. If the pup is restless, you will be able to hear it and take it outside. If the pup decides it wants to play, just reach over, tap the crate and say, “No! Quiet!”

During the day, place the crate near people, in the family room or kitchen. Let your pup see and hear the normal sights and sounds of the household.

When house training a pup, set up a schedule for the pup’s meals, playtime, crate time, trips outside, and follow it closely. The pup should be taken out to eliminate after waking, after eating, and after playing and about every 3 hours in between.

If you are a working dog owner, don’t plan on leaving the pup alone in its crate from 9-6 p.m.. That is entirely too long for the pup to be crated. Confine the pup with its crate to an easy-to-clean area (kitchen/bathroom/laundry room) or hire a neighbor to come play with the pup and take it outside.

If you are at home while housebreaking, feed pup 3 times a day knowing that potty time will be predictable right after, or within 5 minutes of eating/drinking. If you work, feed pup in the morning, allowing potty time before you leave, and when you return from work.

Preventing Problems

Puppies don’t intentionally get into trouble: its just that our belongings are so alluring, at least in a pups eyes. After all, a couch cushion that has been slightly chewed is a lot of fun when its shaken and the stuffing flies out! Leather shoes and rawhide chews are very similar to many pups!

Many of the destructive things pups do can be prevented by using a crate...they cannot destroy $100 shoes if crated when not supervised. By preventing these problems, you will establish good habits. The pup learns to chew on toys you give it, to sleep and be quiet, rather than learn to be destructive.

Security

A crate provides the pup/dog with security away from home. If needed to be boarded, send it with its crate. Use at hotels or when flying. Also, teaching the pup to ride in the crate in the car may save its life from being thrown from a car someday. It also stops interference with the driver.

As an Adult

As your dog matures, it can be given more freedom, but if it does make a mistake, crate it again. The dog must prove reliability by not chewing and having accidents. Too much freedom too soon will result in problems.

Your dog will still use its crate on its own if it has been used properly, as it provides its special place to sleep or to retreat when needed. Your dog will go there when low or sick. It will hide bones there to keep them away from the new baby or puppy in its new crate.

*****first thing in morning, pick up pup, take outside to a predetermined place, mark it, take pup back there always to trigger the idea of where to eliminate.. If you hurry, he will be more apt to do his job in a rush. Bring him inside to a small area where you will be. Around noon, let him out to run, after eliminating, bring into house for an hour or two of “confined freedom” with you. Take out again for quickie before putting back in crate. Just before dinner, take dog out to run, bring in for more “confined freedom”. Feed dinner, not later than 6:00 p.m., take outside again after dinner. Bring in for “controlled freedom” with you, taking outside again about 8 p.m., then again before retiring.

After about 2 weeks of this sort of routine, the pattern should be set, and you can allow more freedom as puppy becomes more trust worthy...and his bladder grows! (allowing for more freedom)

Bad, unruly dogs are almost always the result of lack of training or inconsistency, neglect, or abuse on the owners part. In as little as 5-10 min per day, you can have a well-behaved, happy dog that the whole family friends, and relatives can enjoy.

A sharp, loud "no" is sufficient reprimand for a puppy. The dog wants to please you. You can also grab pup by scruff of neck and look them in the eye to reprimmand (as an alpha bitch would do to it in the wild) It also establishes you as the "leader of the pack"...use a warm happy voice to praise puppy when he does well. NEVER USE HARSH DISCIPLINE...DON'T BORDER ON MISHANDLING OR ABUSING YOUR DOG!!

If you are unable to be gently and firm and patient with your pet, find another home for it before you give up, abuse, or neglect it. Be wise, and kind.

Never create a "live-wire" puppy by always playing rough, it is important to teach him to enjoy calm, quiet affection. Use this method with a soft soothing voice often. Limit the amount that children "rough house" with your pup!

Puppy Proofing Your Home

Folks who have had babies in their homes know about making the home safe for children. For those who have had no children, just get down at a puppy's level and remove or safeguard everything they can possibly see and everything for about 5 feet up, anything near chairs, tables, sofas, etc. Prevention is worth a pound of cure. Here are some things you can do to make sure your home is safe for your new puppy.

Secure electrical outlets and cords. Everything goes in puppy's mouth.....that's how they learn about the world. Make sure electrical cords are secured to baseboards or inaccessible to the pup. Puppies chewing on wires can suffer electric shock burns or die. The same goes for TV cables, computer cables.
Keep medication bottles or cleaners out of the puppy's way, secured in a closed cabinet. Child proof does not mean puppy proof containers because puppies can chew through the bottle.
Keep your puppy away from toxic plants, both in and out of the house. Here's a list of known harmful plants that can cause illness from mild to deadly. Autumn crocus, Azaleas, Bleeding Heart, Buttercups, Castor bean, Daffodil, Dutchman's Breeches, Elderberry, Foxglove, Golden Chain, Hyacinth, Iris, Japanese Yew, Jack-In-the-Pulpit, Larkspur, Lily of the Valley,Mistletoe, Narcissus, Oleander, Poinsettia, Rhubarb, Rhododendrons, just about any kind of bulb and beware those peach and cherry pits!
Use pesticides and rodent poisons with caution and make sure that the puppy cannot get to them. Rat baits are sometimes mixed with grains and can be attractive to pets. Same with boxes or plastic packages.....puppy could try to play with them and ingest the contents!
Don't invite other dogs over to your house unless your puppy has had all his vaccinations If friends do come over make sure their are folk who are meticulous about the health of their pets!
Don't leave cigarettes or butts on the table or in the ashtrays.Puppies could eat them and get nicotine poisoning.
Watch out for Christmas ornaments, tinsel, and other decorations. Broken Christmas balls can lead to nasty cuts, and metallic tinsel can cause poisoning. Other decorations may be toxic, as well..
Don't leave candles burning where puppies can touch them. Puppies are curious creatures and can get burned.
Keep the toliet lid down if you use cleaners.They may be alkaline and tempting for the puppy or dog to drink.
Dispose of bones so that puppy cannot get to them. Puppies will attracted to the smell in the trash can and ingested bones can be deadly.
Don't leave sewing needles or pins out. Something else for those nosy pups to put in their mouths!
Antifreeze is out of reach and drippings are cleaned up immediately! Sweet tasting antifreeze is deadly to pups.
Be careful not to use flea collars, dips or other preparations on pups under 15 weeks. Check with and follow your veterinarian's recommendations for flea control on young dogs.

In case of an accident, have your veterinarian's phone number posted by the phone!

Before taking on the responsibility of a new puppy, please read below...please prevent this story from every happening to your puppy, please, please (get the tissues ready):

A Dog's Story

My housebreaking took a little longer than expected, because you were terribly busy, but we worked on that together. I remember those nights of nuzzling you in bed and listening to your confidences and secret dreams, and I believed that life could not be any more perfect.

We went for long walks and runs in the park, car rides, stops for ice cream (I only got the cone because "ice cream is bad for dogs" you said), and I took long naps in the sun waiting for you to come home at the end of the day.

Gradually, you began spending more time at work and on your career, and more time searching for a human mate. I waited for you patiently, comforted you through heartbreaks and disappointments, never chided you about bad decisions, and romped with glee at your homecomings, and when you fell in love. She, now your wife, is not a "dog person", still I
welcomed her into our home, tried to show her affection, and obeyed her. I was happy because you were happy.

Then the human babies came along and I shared your excitement. I was fascinated by their pinkness, how they smelled, and I wanted to mother them, too. Only she and you worried that I might hurt them, and I spent most of my time banished to another room, or to a dog crate . Oh, how I wanted to love them, but I became a "prisoner of love." As they began to grow, I became their friend. They clung to my fur and pulled themselves up on wobbly legs, poked fingers in my eyes, investigated my ears, and gave me kisses on my nose. I loved everything about them and their touch-because your touch was now so infrequent-and I would've defended them with my life if need be. I would sneak into their beds and listen to their worries and secret dreams, and together we waited for the sound of your car in the driveway.

There had been a time, when others asked you if you had a dog, that you produced a photo of me from your wallet and told them stories about me. These past few years, you just answered "yes" and changed the subject. I had gone from being "your dog" to "just a dog," and you resented every expenditure on my behalf.

Now, you have a new career opportunity in another city, and you and they will be moving to an apartment that does not allow pets. You've made the right decision for your "family," but there was a time when I was your only family. I was excited about the car ride until we arrived at the animal shelter. It smelled of dogs and cats, of fear, of hopelessness. You filled out the paperwork and said "I know you will find a good home for her." They shrugged and gave you a pained look. They understand the realities facing a middle-aged dog, even one with "papers." You had to pry your son's fingers loose from my collar as he screamed "No, Daddy! Please don't let them take my dog!" And I worried for him, and what lessons you had just taught him about friendship and loyalty, about love and responsibility, and about respect for all life.

You gave me a good-bye pat on the head, avoided my eyes, and politely refused to take my collar and leash with you. You had a deadline to meet and now I have one, too. After you left, the two nice ladies said you probably knew about your upcoming move months ago and made no attempt to find me another good home. They shook their heads and asked "How could you?" They are as attentive to us here in the shelter as their busy schedules allow. They feed us, of course, but I lost my appetite days ago. At first, whenever anyone passed my pen, I rushed to the front, hoping it was you that you had changed your mind-that this was all a bad dream...or I hoped it would at least be someone who cared, anyone who might save me.

When I realized I could not compete with the frolicking for attention of happy puppies, oblivious to their own fate, I retreated to a far corner and waited. I heard her footsteps as she came for me at the end of the day, and I padded along the aisle after her to a separate room. A blissfully quiet room. She placed me on the table and rubbed my ears, and told me not to worry. My heart pounded in anticipation of what was to come, but there was also a sense of relief. As is my nature, I was more concerned about her. The burden which she bears weighs heavily on her, and I know that, the same way I knew your every mood. She gently placed a tourniquet around my foreleg as a tear ran down her cheek. I licked her hand in the same way I used to comfort you so many years ago. She expertly slid the hypodermic needle into my vein. As I felt the sting and the cool liquid coursing through my body, I lay down sleepily, looked into her kind eyes and murmured "How could you?" Perhaps because she understood my dogspeak, she said "I'm so sorry." She hugged me, and hurriedly explained it was her job to make sure I went to a better place, where I wouldn't be ignored or abused or abandoned, or have to fend for myself-a place of love and light so very different from this earthly place.

---author unknown

Vaccine Protocol/Schedule for puppies and Dogs

Dr. W. Jean Dodd's vaccination protocol is now being adopted by ALL 27 North American veterinary schools. I highly recommend that
you read this. Copy and save it to your files. Print it and pass it out at dog fairs, cat shows, kennel club meetings, dog parks, give a copy to
your veterinarian and groomer, etc., etc.*
Get the word out.

VACCINATION NEWS FLASH

*I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating
dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical &economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics.

Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs.
those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions, or the doctor's economic well being should not be a factor in medical decision.

NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY
"Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces an immunity which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper,parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not "boosted" nor are more memory cells induced." Not only are annual
boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia. "There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines." Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8-14weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and
little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system. A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year 4mo) will provide lifetime immunity.

CURRENT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DOGS
Distemper & Parvo * "According to Dr. Schultz, AVMA, 8-15-95, when a vaccinations series given at 2, 3 & 4 months and again at 1 year with a
MLV, puppies and kitten program memory cells that survive for life, providing lifelong immunity." Dr. Carmichael at Cornell and Dr. Schultz
have studies showing immunity against challenge at 2-10 years for canine distemper & 4 years for parvovirus. Studies for longer duration are pending. "There are no new strains of parvovirus as one mfg. would like to suggest. Parvovirus vaccination provides cross immunity for all types." Hepatitis (Adenovirus) is one of the agents known to be a cause of kennel cough. Only vaccines with CAV-2 should be used asCAV-1 vaccines carry the risk of "hepatitis blue-eye" reactions &
kidney damage.**Bordetella Parainfluenza: Commonly called "Kennel cough" Recommended only for those dogs boarded, groomed, taken to dog shows, or for any reason housed where exposed to a lot of dogs. The intranasal vaccine provides more complete and more rapid onset of immunity with less chance
of reaction. Immunity requires 72 hours and does not protect from every cause of kennel cough. Immunity is of short duration (4 to 6 months).*

*RABIES There have been no reported cases of rabid dogs or cats in Harris, Montogomery or Ft. Bend Counties [Texas], there have been rabid skunks and bats so the potential exists. / It is a killed vaccineand must be given every year./*//

*Lyme disease_is a tick born disease which can cause lameness, kidney failure and heart disease in dogs. Ticks can also transmit the disease to humans. The
original Ft. Dodge killed bacteria has proven to be the most effective vaccine. Lyme disease prevention should emphasize early removal of ticks. Amitraz collars are more effective than Top Spot, as amitraz paralyzes the tick's mouthparts preventing transmission of disease.

**VACCINATIONS NOT RECOMMENDED**
Multiple components in vaccines compete with each other for the immune system and result in lesser immunity for each individual disease as well
as increasing the risk of a reaction. Canine Corona Virus is only a disease of puppies. It is rare, self limiting (dogs get well in 3 days without treatment). Cornell & Texas A&M have only diagnosed one case each in the last 7 years. Corona virus does not cause disease in adult dogs.*

*Leptospirosis vaccine is a common cause of adverse reactions in dogs. Most of the clinical cases of lepto reported in dogs in the US are caused by serovaars (or types) grippotyphosa and bratsilvia. The vaccines contain different serovaars eanicola and ictohemorrhagica. Cross protection is not provided and protection
is short lived. Lepto vaccine is immuno-supressive to puppies less than 16 weeks.

/NEW RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CATS
Feline vaccine related Fibrosarcoma is a type of terminal cancer related in inflammation caused by rabies & leukemia vaccines. This cancer is thought to affect 1 in 10,000 cats vaccinated. Vaccines with aluminum adjuvant, an ingredient included to stimulate the immune system, have been implicated as a higher risk. We now
recommend anon-adjuvanted rabies vaccine for cats. Testing by Dr. Macy, Colorado State , has shown this vaccine to have the lowest tissue reaction and
although there is no guarantee that a vaccine induced sarcoma will not develop, the risk will be much lower than with other vaccines.*

*Program injectable 6 mo flea prevention for cats has been shown to be very tissue reactive & therefore has the potential of inducing an injection site fiborsarcoma. If your cats develops a lump at the site of a vaccination, we recommend that it be removed ASAP, within 3-12 weeks.*

*Feline Leukemia Virus Vaccine This virus is the leading viral killer of cats. The individuals most at risk of infection are young outdoor cats, indoor/outdoor cats and cats exposed to such individuals. Indoor only cats with no exposure to potentially infected cats are unlikely to become infected. All cats should be tested prior to vaccination. /Cats over one year of age are naturally immune to Fel.V whether they are vaccinated or not, so annual vaccination of adult cats is NOT necessary. The incubation period of Feline leukemia can be over 3 years, so if your cat is in the incubation state of the disease prior to vaccination, the vaccine will not
prevent the disease. *

/Feline Panleukopenia Virus Vaccine. Also called feline distemper is a highly contagious and deadly viral disease of kittens. It's extremely hardy and is resistant
to extremes in temperature and to most available disinfectants. Although an effective treatment protocol is available, it is expensive to treat because of the serious nature of the disease and the continued presence of virus in the environment, vaccination is highly recommended for all kittens. Cats vaccinated at 6 month or older
with either killed or MLV vaccine will produce an immunity good for life. Adult cats do NOT need this vaccine./*

*/Feline Calicivirus/ Herpesvirus Vaccine. Responsible for 80-90% of infectious feline upper respiratory tract diseases. The currently available injectable vaccines will minimize the severity of upper respiratory infections, although none will prevent disease in all situations.* *Intranasal vaccines are more effective at preventing the disease entirely. Don't worry about normal sneezing for a couple of days. Because intranasal vaccines produce an immunity of shorter durations,
annual vaccination is recommended.

VACCINES NOT RECOMMENDED
Chlamydia or pneumonitis. The vaccine produces on a short (2 month)duration of immunity and accounts for less than 5% of upper respiratory infections in cats. The risks outweigh the benefits.*
**
*Feline Infectious Peritonitis. A controversial vaccine. Most kittens that contract FIP become infected during the first 3 months of life. The vaccine is labeled foruse at 16 weeks. All 27 vet schools do not recommend the vaccine.*

Bordetella A new vaccine for feline bordetella has been introduced. Dr. Wolfe of Texas A&M says that bordetella is a normal flora and does not cause
disease in adult cats. Dr. Lappin of Colorado State says that a review of the Colorado State medical records reveals not one case diagnosed in 10 years.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS: Giardia is the most common intestinal parasite of humans inNorth America , 30% or more of all dogs & cats are infected with
giardia. It has now been demonstrated that humans can transmit giardiato dogs & cats & vice versa. *

Heartworm preventative must be given year-round in Houston .

*VACCINES BADLY NEEDED New vaccines in development include: Feline Immunodeficiency Virus and cat scratch fever vaccine for cats and
Ehrlichia [one of the other tick diseases, much worse than Lymes] for dogs.

THE VIEW FROM THE TRENCHES; BUSINESS ASPECTS
Most vets recommend annual boosters and most kennel operators require them. For years the pricing structure of vets has misled clients into thinking that the inherent value of an annual office visit was in the "shots" they failed to emphasize the importance of a physical exam for early detection of treatable diseases. It is my hope that you will continue to require rabies & Kennel cough and emphasize the importance of a recent vet exam. I also hope you will accept the new protocols and
honor these pets as currently vaccinated. Those in the boarding business who will honor the new vaccine protocols can gain new customers who were
turned away from vet owned boarding facilities reluctant to change.

CONCLUSION
Dogs & cats no longer need to be vaccinated against distemper, parvo, & feline leukemia every year. Once the initial series of puppy or kitten vaccinations and first annual vaccinations are completed, immunity from MLV vaccines persists for life. It has been shown that cats over 1 year of age are immune to Feline Leukemia whether they have been vaccinated or not. Imagine the money you will save, not to mention less risks from side effects. PCR rabies vaccine, because it is not adjuvanted, will mean less risk of mediated hemolytic anemia and allergic reactions are reduced by less frequent use of vaccines as well as by avoiding unnecessary vaccines such as K-9 Corona virus and chlamydia for cats, as well as ineffective vaccines such as Leptospirosis and FIP. Intranasal vaccine for Rhiotracheitis and Calici virus, two upper respiratory viruses of cats provide more complete protection than injectable vaccines with less risk of serious reactions.

The AAHA and all 27 veterinary schools of North America are our biggest endorsement for these new protocols.*

*Dr. Bob Rogers* Please consider as current on all vaccinations for boarding purposes.

DOGS Initial series of puppy vaccines
1. distemper, hepatitis, parvo, parinfluenze - 3 sets one month apart concluding at 16 weeks of age.*
2. Rabies at 16 weeks of age (later is better)
3. Bordetella within last 4-6 months First annual (usually at 1 year and4 months of age)*
1. DHP, Parvo, Rabies
2. Bordetella within last 4-6 months 2 years or older
1. Rabies with in last year
2. Bordetella within last 4-6 months
3. DHP & Parvo given anytime over 6 months of age , but not necessarily within the last year.
Recommended: Physical exam for transmissible diseases and health risks.

*CATS Initial kitten series
1. Distemper [PLP], Rhino Calicivirus, Feline Leukemia Vaccine - 3 sets given one month apart concluding at 16weeks.
2. Rabies at 16 weeks
First Annual [usually at 1 year and 4 months of age]
1. Distemper (PLP), Rhino Calicivirus, Rabies 2 years or older
1. Rabies within the last year
2. Rhino Calicivirus within last year
3. Distemper and FelV given anytime after 6 months of age, but not necessarily with the last year.
Recommended: Physical exam, FeLV/FIV testing, fecal

Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete
One Veterinarian's Opinion
© 2005 Chris Zink DVM, PhD, DACVP

Neuter or not?

Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and owners working with canine athletes should revisit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.

Orthopedic Considerations

A study by Salmeri et al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, who were taller than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).(1) A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers performed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.(2) The sex hormones, by communicating with a number of other growth-related hormones, promote the closure of the growth plates at puberty (3), so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle likely becomes heavier (because it is longer), and may cause increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. In addition, sex hormones are critical for achieving peak bone density.(4) These structural and physiological alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study showed that spayed and neutered dogs had a higher incidence of CCL rupture.(5) Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age, although it should be noted that in this study there were no standard criteria for the diagnosis of hip dysplasia.(6) Nonetheless, breeders of purebred dogs should be cognizant of these studies and should consider whether or not pups they bred were spayed or neutered when considering breeding decisions.

A word about Flexi-Leads:

Despite my "mishaps" (near shoulder dislocation, etc.) in the past with Flexi leads, I still use them. I especially find them handy when traveling; the dogs need a little more freedom when it's potty time at a hotel, etc.

There is indeed a skill necessary in using them, however. I don't let anyone take my dogs out on a Flexi unless they know how to use one. It's almost a case for a class or something of the sort, to acquaint the handler with the finer aspects of this type of leash...ex. using the button to keep the dog under close control when needed, and using that button when the dog gets excited, as opposed to grabbing the line/ribbon, risking an injury to yourself or the dog, and never letting the dog run out to the end of the line...a matter of pure physics and leverage.

I would also recommend to stay with the original "Flexi" brand. There are other "replicas" out there, but I have found none that compare in quality. The Flexi company is great; they have even replaced one of mine for a minimal cost after one of my dogs (one who likes to take the lead in her mouth) snapped the line.

Using the Flexi type lead does not replace training on a regular leash. My dogs are trained on both and know the difference. They know that when they get to the end of the Flexi they ease up. I find it works quite well when we are out on runs in the country. I would not recommend using them on a busy city street, where you need close control at all times.

There is a time and a place for different types of equipment. It's just a matter of education to decide when and where to use it.

I have used them too - mainly for exing dogs that don't have good recalls. But I really feel strongly that the average pet owner shouldn't be using them. My neighbor's new puppy just ran away in a panic when she dropped the flexi, and it coiled up and scared the daylights out of the pup. She ran off across the street with the thing bouncing behind her scaring her even more... Could have been a tragedy but we have a very quiet street. I've seen dog fights that were impossible to break up because two flexi leads were twisted together. At PetSmart I watched a woman who was totally oblivious that her dog was peeing on a stack of dog food bags because she was at the other end of the aisle. I was at a thruway rest stop on Sunday and watched a man with his dog on a flexi outside the rest stop, and people were having great difficulty avoiding the dog and the line because he just let the dog have full range of the leash, essentially blocking the doorway. The dangers of tripping up people and rope burns and related injuries are just not worth it.

Helpful Resources | SiteMap