About Labradors

    WE would like to take this opportunity to introduce you to the history of the Labrador Retriever, as we have included our personal history in the homepage text as well as in the section, "about us". So many people ask us, "what's the difference between the "English" and the "American" (field) labs? There is such a big difference that the AKC has, at times, considered splitting the breed. There is a difference in build, as well as temperament. If you are looking for strictly a "field" dog for field trial competition, go for the American field dog. They are athletic, tall, lanky, thin, but have VERY hyper, high-strung personalities which do not lend themselves to being the best "family dogs." On the other hand, the English labs are very blocky, stocky, shorter in their build. Very sweet, quiet, mellow, lovely dogs. They still maintain their natural instinct to retrieve and use their noses (after all, Life is too short to hunt with an ugly dog!!), but will be much more controllable in the field, and will also be your family companion at your fireside after a day of hunting. One of the reasons Endless Mt. Labradors stresses, the "all-purpose" lab (English lab) is because we strive to develop ALL the best qualities of the Labrador, and we do not sacrifice one trait in order to emphasize another. If anything, we major on temperament, because a dog can be beautiful in conformation, and have a lovely pedigree, but if it does not pass our temperament test, it is out of our breeding criteria. The Labrador was originally bred to be able to navigate and swim in the icy waters off of Newfoundland. They have a thick undercoat which shields them from the extremes of both cold and heat. Labs first appeared in English maritime towns that were engaged in the fishing industry. Today, the lab is the most popular breed in the U.S. due to their versatility, sporting ability, and their roles as loyal companions. It has the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl and upland game. The lab has a short, dense, weather-resistant coat, and "otter" tail, a clean- cut head with a broad back skull and moderate stop, and kind, expressive eyes that communicate intelligence and good temperament. Labs have few health problems if bred by a reputable breeder who is selective and screens for defects in their breeding stock. Labs are also wonderfully "maintenance free"...no need for grooming, brushing, etc. Just clip their nails occasionally, give a bath every 2-3 months if kept indoors (they are very "non-oily" dogs, seldom ever "stinky", and rarely need bathing) Do not "over bathe" it will cause flaking and may dull the coat. Labs are very sensitive to food allergy that may affect their coat and skin (raw sores may erupt if not fed appropriate food!). Feed ONLY breeder- recommended foods and appropriate supplement. It will save you the headache and heartache of many trips to the vet for simple nutritional needs that specifically pertain to labs.   Call us for our recommendations

Dew Claws: 

We do not remove dewclaws, first , because we do not predominately breed field labs that are going to be heavily hunted in thick brush.  Secondly, because they do it at 2 weeks old, with no anesthesia, and I can’t stand the sound of screaming puppies in pain, and also the possibility of infection in a pup so young.  If you wish to hunt your pup in thick brush, you can either remove the dewclaws right away after it goes home, or have it done when the dog is asleep when spaying or neutering it at 6 mos old.  Even my show dogs have their dew claws, so I don’t even do it for “cosmetic reasons”, as God did intend this claw to be there…we don’t just remove it unless a particular dog has some kind of problem with its dew claws. The dew claw is a dog’s thumb.  Watch one play with a toy or chew a bone sometimes, they use it all the time, it is very useful.   I don’t want to chop off my dog’s thumbs.  Taking dew claws (which, by the way,  was ONLY ever done in the US) is as cruel as docking tails, or cropping ears.  They pups don’t care how they look, all they feel is the trauma.  New studies have also found that snipping of the dew claw can cause damage to the joint. The point at which they snip it is also a very important acupuncture point.  I choose to keep my dew claws.  Its in the best interest of my dogs.  If you want to do something helpful with the dewclaw, just merely keep that nail short…most dog owners totally ignore that nail or let it get to long. 

COLOR:  I have chosen to cover this subject, only because I am so surprised at how often I get asked this question, "Is one color better than another, temperament-wise"...or I get the statement, " I hear all chocolates are hyper", or ," My Uncle Barney says, all yellow are mellow"...well, lets talk science instead of "wives tales", ok....

It almost reminds me of the statement I heard once that "I think all LARGE labs are calmer"...talk about "bad science"...its not even logical.  Its all GENETICS...believe me, I could show you over 50 LARGE (100 lb +) American field labs that are the most hyper, most obnoxious dogs I have ever made contact with.  Right there...you see the logic and where this goes...regarding color...its like saying "all blondes (human) are dumb, and all redheads have a bad temper"...well, you can see the absurdity of that statement...so I will let you draw your conclusion about color...its ALL genetics...you cannot even go from "experience", I will admit you have probably seen a lot of terribly hyper chocolate labs, I have seen terribly hyper labs both black, chocolate, and yellow.  Remember, labradors are the most popular dog in the US, and everyone and their brother can breed a litter of labs and sell them (with no regard to temperament, genetic soundness, nor conformation)...and that produces irresponsibility in breeding, so you will see more POORLY bred labs than any other breed, for this reason.  Chocolates, being the rarest in the breed, are more often bred for  coat color alone, which is why you may see more poorly bred ones in your travels.   We breed for good temperament, proper conformation, and genetic soundness in ALL or our labs, no matter what color. And concerning chocolates, I once had an AKC show judge once tell one of my clients, "don't buy a chocolate from any breeder in the US other than Endless Mt. Labradors, or Erinhill Labradors."  Interesting....

Oh, and I must address the "pigment" issue...all labs should have DARK pigment (around eyes, lips, nose, nice brown eye), not pink or liver.  The worst example of a yellow is shown below...I had to removed the 'owner' to "protect the innocent!"  this most often occurs when someone breeds a yellow to chocolate (the first No-No in lab breeding!)  This kind of "no pigment" is called a "dudley"

if you find a breeder with labs looking like this...RUN away...and RUN FAST! (can you believe the above picture was used on a wall calendar???)

Now, sometimes just the nose will fade on the yellow in the cold weather, but if eyes, lips and eyes are dark, they are not a true "dudley".

...ahhh...now that's more like it!!

We also aim for the darkest chocolate coat we can.  Our chocolates have the riches, most lustrous coat you can imagine...it almost makes you crave "chocolate!!" (see below):

...a pup out of our Bronzen, sent in by one our Clients (above)...

Our black coats are dark, shiny and as sharp as a tuxedo!

 

Male vs. Female:  I often have people ask if they should buy a male or female lab...again, if you see the logic above, you will realize, we choose for temperament in all colors, all litters, which carries through to all SEXES...and some people will give me the same statement, "well, I heard all male labs are calmer" (or the opposite!)  Therefore, based on experience alone, they choose sex, OR, they just have a preference one way or the other, which is to be expected.  Some people assume because they had a male one time, and a female the next, and the female was "different than the male and was so and so..." that this was a sex issue, when it could have been merely a "personality" issue (different than temperament!), and may have found two different females, under the same experience scenario, to have shown a difference in personality.  Each dog is soooo individual, just like people.  

ALERT:  opposed to the "wives tale", males are not the only ones to "hump" someones leg, or mark their territory, a female that is not spayed will also hump, AND mark their territory (only it makes a much bigger pee spot on your floor), AND wander off when she comes into heat.. These are BEHAVIORAL things that come with the onset of horomones, or the presence of other canines.  To eliminate all these behaviors, I recommend spaying or nuetering BEFORE the horomones kick in, which for females is before 8 mos old, and for males, by 6 mos old.  (Most of my females experience their first heat between 11-14 mos old, but males can sire a litter already by 7-8 mos old!)

Getting TWO puppies at once!I actually do advocate 2 puppies...afterall...dogs are PACK animals, so they are happiest with their own kind.  It also solves the question of "guilt" when you are away and can't be with  your dog, it also is less stress on the pups (no lonely crying pup in the middle of the night...), and is less stress on you. You do the training once for both...easier than getting a pup now, then another later... I'd say I have a pair of labs go out in almost every litter, as this trend has actually become more popular.  I also find it is a false assumption that the pups will bond to each other and not you...I've had so many labs over 21 years, and I have never found this to be true.  They include you IN their pack.  they love you as much as they do their canine counterpart. Labs are sooooo adaptable.  

Adding a Second Labrador:  Some people ask if they should add the same sex or opposite sex for a second labrador...I can tell you from experience, same sex will only work  about 50% of the time, but opposite sex pairings work 100% of the time.  To me, its not worth the risk of two same sex dogs having one immerge as the "alpha" and you have to make the difficult decision  to place or sell one of your dogs.  That is only my opinion.  I must at least state it, as I do not want to see any of you experience this heartache.  Sometimes the second lab of the same sex can feel "threatened" or in "competition with" the other lab.  Its just not worth it, if you ask me...although it is ultimately your choice, I DO NOT recommend 2 labs (dogs) of the same sex in the same household.

Remember this rule of thumb when introducing a second dog to your household:  Remember when you bought that brand new baby home and you had a little child (toddler) at home who got REAL jealous?  This happens when they learn "hey, this little thing is getting more attention than ME, ME, ME!" We always make this fatal mistake...so instead, give the "toddler" attention WHEN the baby comes out...he'll learn, "Oh, cool, this baby gets me attention when it shows up....I like this!!!"  Same thing with dogs.  Think of your present dog as the 'toddler"...the rest is going to work itself out over a TWO week period as the "pecking order" is established.  Please be patient, and let them do this.

 

Allergies: Although I have not dealt with this with MY labradors, I have so many people who contact me wanting information for their labs.  Here is some tips:

Whenever I have had people with other labs (other bloodlines)  that call for my advice, I usually put them on Flint River Ranch food, "Trout and Sweet Potato." Item # FNC 40, use my customer ID when ordering, # MMT4, you can order by calling 800-704-5779.  They don't even charge you shipping for this food!!!  (call or email  me and I can help you order this special food)  The fatty acids in the  fish are necessary for skin and coat.  The Flint river also does not have the normal additives that some dogs are allergic to.  Its not the FAT he needs, its the fatty acids  I would also give him yogurt 2x a day, as chronic yeast infection in the body can cause skin issues, just like in people.  Plain vanilla yogurt 1/2 cup twice a day.  Overuse of antibiotics cause candida yeast to replicate in the body (like in humans)...vet don't seem to "get" this, and just make the problem worse.  You can thank your vet for making the problem worse sometimes, I don't know how many times I catch vets doing this!makes me furious.   I have heard once from a breeder that come dogs can actually get allopecia (SP?)   a condition some humans get (loss of hair).  They treat it with Melatonin, believe it or not, I believe. Hair loss can also come from stress.  I once had a lady tell me her dog lost its hair (almost bald) when her husband came down with cancer...as soon as he passed away...the coat came back as luxurious as ever! Don't over bathe.  One Aleve daily can relieve the itch, that simple, and at  least give him relief until you can treat the cause that is the root of symptoms. I'm sure you have him on regular flea products.  They can actually be allergic to that too, I've heard.  Brewers Yeast, in the NuVet Canine Plus should help with this.  Cancer:  I have a LOT of people call me and tell me their labs (bought from other breeders besides myself).  Frankly, I'm appalled out how proliferate this is in the breed.  I personally have only heard of cancer in 1 dog in all my 21 years of breeding.  I don't know if I have just had good luck or what...but it has never been a genetic issue in our labs.  BUT, I do know that we have pumped our dogs full of antioxidants and wheat free food.  Oncologists actually put dogs on wheat free food to prevent cancer, or if they are already pre-disposed to cancer.  It is also low carb, so you will not struggle with weight problems either. Basically corn and wheat were originally used in pet foods and as a cheaper source of filler than the wheat protein was.  Many people prefer to not feed carbs because for one thing, cancer cells FEED OFF OF CARBS.  In humans, the nations with higher carb consumption have a higher cancer rate.  Its FACT.  Lower the carbs, and lower your risk for cancer, diabetes, etc.  All things are dogs get as well.  They digest proteins and herbs/plants  much better---that is what they were designed to digest.  In wild dogs are carnivorous, BUT they also graze on greens (herbs, etc)... Go to the page above entitled "Flint River Dog Food" to read further on wheat free, gluten free, corn free  food.  Also the NuVet page will cover the necessity of antioxidants to battle free radicals....just like with us humans! (above: Mecca, Maggie, Emmy)   Ears:  Although I only had one lab in 20 years with a chronic ear problem, I am writing this for those of you who have not been lucky enough to have found the "miracle cure" for this, which I finally found with my dog.  Once I got her off all medications, and only used Tea Tree Oil (available at any health food store), I never had a problem again.  Administer a few drops twice a day for two weeks (rub so it completely coats inside of ear canal, NEVER USE Q-Tips!!), then just do a maintenance dose of once a week after that, if needed.  This wonderful oil is an antiparasitic, antiviral, antibiotic and antifungal!  It covers everything.  You will never need another topical cream in your medicine cabinet!! For daily maintanence, I highly recommend a product called "Paramount Ear Solution, it will work as a maintenance and preventative for ear infections.  Its the best I know on the market!!!  Call 888-748-7373.  It is item # 103. You will need to use my customer ID when ordering, which is # 2124 A recent ear infection protocol I gave a client just the other day:   Change your food to one called "Trout and Sweet Potato" (the order code is "FNC 40") from Flint River Ranch Dog food (you can use my breeder code MMT4, 800-704-5779) Change over gradually over 2-3 days.  If you need the phone number to order, let me know! Feed this and ONLY this for 2 months, don't even feed treats.  Stop ALL antibiotics! Buy plain vanilla yogurt.  Feed 1 cup of yogurt a day for 2 MOS. Each day,  dry ears, clean (use a small, thin cloth, and slowly twist it down deep into the ear, a cloth that won't rip) , then, put in enough drops of Tea Tree Oil to coat the ear entirely, but not drown or saturate it.  Rub the base of ear to be sure it all gets down inside.  Do this every day for 2 MOS.  Go to a local health food store to purchase a quality Tea Tree oil product, not just something from a drug store or grocery story.Use the Paramount products as directed. After 2 MOS, you will only need to apply the tea tree oil once a week as a maintenance.  Dry ears after swimming, or anytime they are wet. Have dog sleep in a room that is 50-60 degrees each night.  This will keep yeast from having at least 8-10 hours to grow each day! Our heated homes can be some of the worst culprits to ear yeast! Keep dog in cool rooms in summer (air-conditioned) even if you only do one room in house.  Or a cool garage/basement at night or when you are not home during the day.   This will help! My first dog was a Beagle ...they are the WORST for ear infections.  I cured her in 1 months time with this regimen.  She had had problems for YEARS (this was when I was new to dog ownership, and had no one to ask advice of!) We had tried cleaning, Tresederm, everything, we almost got her ears docked it was so bad!!! My first lab also was cured with this regimen, after only 1-2 MOS of following it.  Below is her email to me only a few weeks later:   Here's a testimony from a recent ear success story!!! Hi! I just got back from the vet, and she was amazed at the change in Scout.  No more ear infection, no more allergy sores.  She’s great.  I can’t thank you enough for Scout’s recovery.  You’re the best! Thanks again,Barbara, Barbara S. Ismail, PhD Weight Maintenance:  Remember, a lean dog is healthier than an overweight dog, and puts less stress on his joints AND internal organs.  If you don't give your pup enough nutrition, it can stunt its growth and development of bone and substance. Unfortunately, most veterinarians are use to seeing only lankier, field trial/hunting types of Labradors.  Many of them advise my puppy buyers that the puppy was too FAT when, in fact, it wasn't at all.  The English labs from show lines have more bone and substance , and simply are stockier.  Feel for your dogs ribs often and judge for yourself.  If you can feel the ribs with a little bit of pressure, he is fine, if you can't feel the ribs, he has too thick of a layer of fat and you should cut back on food (or treats???).  You should NEVER be able to see the ribs! As with humans, if you let your dog become a couch potato, it will have health problems, and a brief life.  A dog needs 20-30 min of exercise a day as you do...shame on you if you don't!  Neglect in this area is as abusive as seeing an underweight starving dog.  Both will shorten the length of life, and also QUALITY of life.   I recommend two feedings a day, one huge meal is just too much volume at one time and leaves dog hungry again. Providing Safe Environment for puppy/dogs:  Please refer to my "Crate Training manuel" on the "puppy training" page of this site first. Make sure puppy of dog is always in a well-ventilated environment, especially in summer months.  Use a wire crate, not a plastic vari-kennel...these can heat up in hot weather, and actually burn the skin if touched.  The same with the "igloo" style dog houses...these are just furnaces...NEVER use these to house a dog outside.  They also hold cold in the winter...its like laying on and ICE CUBE...what a great way to treat your dog (???)...imagine the arthritic dog having to lay on such a thing!  Never tie a dog to a tree or object.  This does not protect your dog from predatory animals, nor is it humane.  They may at any time panic or get tangled.  I once knew a stud dog that got his penis tangled in the chain he was tied to and literally castrated himself while his owner was gone for one hour. A crate inside or an outdoor fenced kennel (with shade and plenty of fresh water) is the most humane, safe environment for you dog if you cannot be home. Identification:  I recommend microchipping your dog at 14 weeks of age (before that is too young, the needle used to insert the microchip can cause excessive bleeding in a young pup)  This will ensure that if you dogs loses its collar or tag, it can still be scanned if it ends up in a shelter or kennel.  The info on the chip will automatically trace you down and you can immediately be called! A collar with a tag with you phone number is still recommended, as some people are too lazy...if they find your dog and can't immediately phone you, they sometimes just leave the dog. Aggression: I've never dealt with an aggression issue, and labs don't tend to deal with this issue,  so I'm afraid I can't really speak from experience.  But these are some of the first things I would consider if you find yourself with a lab or canine with this issue: The first thing I would want to know is if she/he is spayed/nuetered yet? Are there other pets in the house that are of the same sex? Has anything "socially" changed in your household? Is she/he in pain? Have you had the vet examine her? Is she up to date on her vaccinations/wormings/rabies/lymes vaccine? Does she feel threatened in anyway? Has she ever been alone with small children (unattended?)  Small children can inadvertantly HURT dogs and make them not like kids if they are left to do this.  Never allow children to pull on, bully, hit, or poke at a dog!  It will "sour" them on children for good if this behavior goes on too long.  Teach children to respect animals, and punish them in the same way you would if they hit, hurt, or abused another child/person.  I one time pulled on my daughters ears after I found her pulling on one of my dogs ears...it was a quick, effective lesson, and it never happened again!!    If you cover all these issues and still need a good trainer, I'd go that route.  If not, I would contact Lab Rescue, as they have people who are ready to deal with dogs that have 'challenges."....I've heard that merely moving a dog to another family or environment immediately solves the issue.  Bathing your Labrador:  Some people ask me to recommend a safe shampoo for their puppy or lab.  Since some shampoos on the market are not tear free, they can cause eye damage.  Also, if they are not PH balanced, they can cause excess drying and make the skin/coat flaky.  I highly recommend a product called "Paramount Itty Bitty Puppy Kitty Shampoo".  Order from 888-748-7373.  Item # 121. ( you will need to use my customer ID # 2124 when ordering)  Its a 17 oz bottle and will last you a long time. It has the best smell of any dog shampoo I have ever used!!!  You'll love it!!! Hot Spots/eczema/dermatitis:  I recommend a wonderful product called "Paramount Medicated Lotion"  It can be used in between bathings.  Product # 102, 888-shurepets.  You will need to use my customer ID # 2124 when ordering.  Along with this, you need to try the Flint River Ranch "Trout and Sweet Potato" formula dog food, you will see results in 4 weeks, everytime I recommend this people RAVE about the results. it is product code "FNC40"  Call 800-704-5779 to order  and use my customer ID # MMT4 when ordering.  They don't even charge you shipping on this food!!! For labs who eat too  FAST :  "Life Bowl" is a bowl that actually makes the dog slow down in its eating /drinking pace,  gulping and eating or drinking fast  can lead to gulping of excessive air and cause bloating or vomiting.   For labs, order the large size, item # 622L from 888-748-7373.  Use my customer order ID when ordering, # 2124  Weight Loss:  Some dogs actually need a little assistance to lose weight, despite an owners efforts to change food or limit food.  FINALLY, there is a weight loss supplement (all natural!) for dogs!!!  The product is called "Canine "Thin is in" Vitamins.  call 888-748-7373 to order...it is item # 213, you will need to use my customer ID # 2124 when ordering.  This is NOT to be used in replacement of a daily supplement!!!  It is to be used in addition to one.   Shedding:  shedding is normal for Labradors, but only once a year (Spring usually) but not all year long.  If you have a lab like this, it is usually linked to nutrition.  I have recommended a food specifically for this called "Trout and Sweet Potato"...everyone I recommend it to calls in 4 weeks thanking me for the tip...their dog has stopped shedding!!!  It is item # FNC 40, and you can use my customer ID # MMT4.  They will not even charge you shipping for this food!!! Call Flint River at 800-704-5779, and mention my ID # MMT4 before ordering. See my "Fling River Dog Food" page for more info!

Genetics of Color in Labradors
by Amy Dahl

gene is a sequence of base pairs (on a DNA strand) that codes for a particular trait (or set of traits). The DNA of a dog exists in 78 different pieces called chromosomes (humans have 46). A close look at the chromosomes shows that they occur as pairs, one member of each of the 39 pairs being supplied by the sire and the other coming from the dam. While the two chromosomes in a pair are not identical, they contain genes for all of the same traits.

This means that each dog has two versions of every gene, one inherited from its sire and one from its dam. They may be identical, or they may be different alleles of the gene (any of the variations on a gene). For example, a dog may have inherited the allele that codes for black coat ("B") from its sire, and the allele that codes for chocolate ("b") from its dam. It is useful to have a name for the portion of a chromosome that alternative alleles, like those for black and chocolate, can occupy. We call it a locus (Latin form "place"), and so we can refer to the "B" locus as that part of the genetic code that determines black vs. chocolate.

Yellow is determined at a different locus, the "E" locus, and is independent of the alleles present at the "B" locus. Yellow color occurs only when two recessive "e" alleles are present – genotype "ee." The presence of a single dominant "E" allele (genotypes "EE" and "Ee") will ensure a non-yellow coat, which may be black or chocolate depending upon the genes present at the "B" locus.

At least one copy of the "B" allele is needed for dogs to form black pigment, and "BB" and "Bb" dogs will have black or yellow fur with black noses. Dogs having the "bb" genotype have chocolate or yellow fur with brown noses, and must inherit a "b" allele from each parent. Dogs having the "ee" genotype have yellow coats and must inherit an "e" allele from each parent."

Excerpted from The Genetics of Color in Labradors, by Amy Frost Dahl, Ph.D.

A dog's genetic makeup is very complex (like us) and many genes are involved in coat color. The same genes are all present in every dog however only certain ones get "turned on" like a switch and others are off depending on what breed or what goes into a puppy in the case of a mixed breed. A Labrador's coat color is dependent on many genes being turned on and off. The ones we commonly think of that dictate color in our breed are the B and E genes. Other genes like T for ticking is always turned off and still other genes like the A gene causes a dog's coat to be a solid color. We know that If a lab has BB or Bb then black is dominant and if it has bb then the dog is chocolate. However the E gene acts as a epistatic gene or "masking" gene; in other words if the dog has Ee or EE then the color is dependent on what is present at the B gene (BB, Bb, or bb) but if the dog has ee then it will always be yellow no matter what is present at the B gene. A yellow that has a dominant B gene (BB or Bb) will have typical black pigment on the nose, lips, and eyerims and a yellow that is homozygous recessive at the B gene (bb) will be a Dudley.

Now the silver coloration comes into play when the D gene is turned on. If the D gene is in it’s homozygous recessive form (dd) then it will "dilute" the coloration if the B gene. When chocolate is dilute the color is a silvery mousey brown and the dilute version of a black (Bb or BB) yields a dog that is dark slate gray or "blue". Weimeraners are a breed that is based on dilution. The typical Weim coat is a mousey gray and it’s because their D and B genes are both present in the homozygous recessive forms (dd and bb) so the typical Weim is a chocolate that is diluted. Weimeraners also can carry the B gene in the dominant form so therefore a darker blue Weim can pop up in litters when they are dd and BB. A breed like the Doberman also has this dilute gene pattern in it’s population and therefore "blue" Dobies arise from a dilute black Doberman and fawn is the dilution of a red Dobe. Other breeds like Great Danes, Chow Chows, and German Shepherds and even Newfoundlands can be diluted. Some breeds accept the color and others do not and if the dilution factor is present in a breed it is found the world over and is known to be in the population. The breeders of silver Labs originally thought that the color was a mutation. Mutations typically do not reproduce and if they do they do not follow a pattern. Silver Lab expression follows the exact same pattern as any other dilution in other breeds. Also as more silver breeders appear the darker blue color has arose because they introduced black into their breedings unlike the first silver breeders who assumed that only chocolate would produce silver.

I would suspect that silver Labs were a combination of a Labrador and a Weimaraner - they ALWAYS have the diluted D gene turned on (dd). This combo would produce a dog that would essentially look like a lab and if bred to a chocolate lab then the results would look and most likely act like labs (due to the Weim also being a gun dog and having a vaguely similar build and temperament when compared to many other breeds) - and the dilute gene could be "turned on" because of an introduction of this dilute combination. The resulting offspring could carry this - silver breeders comment that all silver puppies come from a silver x silver cross, and silver x chocolate give either silver puppies or chocolate puppies that carry silver. This would agree with the D gene hypothesis - two parents with dd would only give a d gene and the puppies would all have dd and would therefore be silver.

Through research I have found that all silver Labradors or Labs that carry the dilution factor can be traced back to two kennels in the U.S. They were breeders that stumbled upon the color and sought out to express it as often as possible and so pedigrees from the first silver Labs are the result of inbreedings like father to daughter and full sister to brother, etc. This was the only way they could keep the color going since other dogs would not yield the color and furthermore all other countries besides the U.S. have never even heard of a silver Lab. Both of these kennels had dogs that came from one kennel in particular which bred both retrieving and pointing breeds in the U.S. back in 20’s and 30’s. An old time west coast breeder actually remembers them advertising rare blue Labradors in Gun Dog magazine in the 50’s. So it is my theory that the dilution factor was added back then most likely by accident and breeders today are keeping it going.

There are many reasons why silver Labradors should not be produced and the main one is that they are a disqualification and adhering to a standard while breeding is what keeps a breed a breed. The Labrador looks and acts like Labrador and not a German Shepherd because of the dedicated breeders preserving the breed. A standard is a blueprint and varying because it looks nice will undoubtedly cause the structure to fail. Also silver breeders do not typically run health clearances on their breeding stock (OFA/CERF) nor do they participate in any competitions to prove their dogs are breeding quality. This leads me to believe that they are breeding simply to make money and do not care about a superior individual nor do they care about the breed in general.

Silver breeders also blatantly lie. They have information on their websites that talk about DNA testing done by the AKC and a researcher at UC Berkley. Both are not true. AKC never did any genetic mapping of silver Labradors nor do they have any plans to do so since they are a registering body only and the Labrador Club of America writes the standard for the breed. Also Dr. Neff at UC Berkley was never looking into whether or not silver Labs were purebred or not which is also a moot point since DNA testing can only prove parentage at this point and is not specific enough to search for breed markers.

"The Science Behind AKC DNA Profiles

AKC DNA Profiles are generated using the same technology used by law enforcement agencies throughout the world. How does this work? In humans and dogs alike, each gene is present as two copies (displayed as letters). Offspring receive one copy of each gene from each parent in a random process.

This technology does not use actual genes, but other DNA sequences that are also inherited one copy from each parent. For this reason, your dog's AKC DNA Profile does not provide any information about the conformation of the dog or the presence/absence of genetic diseases.  Furthermore, AKC DNA Profiles cannot determine the breed of a dog."

The color will never be recognized and it does not appear anywhere else in the world. A silver or blue Labrador can not be entered in a conformation event because they do not fit the standard even though they are erroneously registered as chocolate. If they really were a shade of chocolate like a cream or fox red is a shade of yellow then they could be shown.

So please be educated about the color and don’t pay the high price for a novelty. I have received numerous emails from silver owners whose dogs had many health and temperament problems. Buyer beware.

© 2005 Sharon A. Wagner
wigwag@adelphia.net
www.wigwaglabradors.com

"Letter from the author Sharon A. Wagner:

First of all I hold a Master of Science degree in molecular biology and genetics so I most certainly am qualified to research and interpret Labrador coat color genetics. I have had several conversations with AKC representative and LRC, Inc representatives as well concerning the silver color. If you have any semblance of credentials and/or have been in contact with either the AKC or LRC and have varying information than my own please feel free to comment.

If you are a silver breeder or prospective breeder and would like more information or to discuss the points addressed in this article feel free to email me. If you want to harass me or call me names please keep to yourself because frankly anyone who would like to do this is quite ignorant and so I won't take your words seriously so really why bother. I have in the past taken every email seriously and I reply with answers to questions, etc yet I rarely get a response back or else the person calls me a name and does not care to respond to my questions back or debate points made or facts.

Also when you email me and pretend to be someone else such as a "breeder of field champions", etc and say you produced a silver or charcoal puppy in your litter I can tell you are not who you say you are by the free email address and lack of any information such as website, name, location, etc. I also will ask for pedigrees and photos and I have yet to receive any from "breeders of champions". So please read the information compiled here and think what you will but if you only want to call someone names then keep it to yourself because all you get out of me is a good laugh. Thank you."

Used with permission by LRM - Woodhaven Labs. You may link to this article, but may not take or copy to your own website without permission.

SOME RESPONSES TO SOME OF THE SILVER LABRADOR CLAIMS

One of the Silver breeders state on their site:

"Are Silver Labs Pure bred Labrador Retriever?

DNA testing and mapping of silver labs was done during the close of the Twentieth Century and meticulous investigation of each silver labs ancestry was conducted by investigators from AKC"

The current DNA testing doesn't prove the dog is a purebred Labrador. The DNA testing available only proves that dog A and that dog B are the parents of dog C.  No where does it prove that the one or more of the grandparents of dog A wasn't a weim or a weim cross.

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

Also one states:

"Silver Labs are pure bred Labrador Retrievers and their ancestry is beyond reproach. Fortunately, kennel clubs around the world do not have the political pressure from mercenary American breeders of "normal" colored labs and already accept silver labs without all the political fuss and pressure being applied to AKC "

Sorry but there isn't a kennel club in the world that recognizes silver Labradors. In every Labrador standard used throughout the world, it states that Labradors come in black, yellow and chocolate.

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

This one was a laugher:

"There is no doubt the increase in popularity and demand for Silver Labs is applying significant financial pressure to breeders of black and yellow labs, but there is also little doubt that AKC will eventually have to succumb to the pressure to make silver a recognized color in America."

First of all, the AKC doesn't make the decision on what colors are recognized for each breed. The PARENT CLUB of each breed makes and sets the standards. I can guarantee you that it will be a cold day in you-know-where before the LRC, Inc. would ever recognize this color.

Second of all, as to the "significant financial pressure" that I and other breeders of the "real" colors of Labradors are under - BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! A responsible breeder never breeds for a "color" nor does one breed because of financial reasons. Most responsible breeders don't worry about profit. Why? Because we rarely if ever make one and we do not breed for financial gain.

So you can see that all these claims by the Silver Lab people are far-fetched at best.

• www.geocities.com/silverlabs1/
• www.labbies.com/silver.htm

INFORMATION ABOUT LABRADOR COLORS

• Labrador Colors
• Shades of Yellows

Early Spay-Neuter Considerations
for the Canine Athlete
One Veterinarian's Opinion
© 2005 Chris Zink DVM, PhD, DACVP

Orthopedic Considerations

Copy and past this into your browser to view AKC standard for the Labrador Retriever:

http://www.akc.org/breeds/labrador_retriever/

or see below for description:

General Appearance
The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-coupled, dog possessing a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog; the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under difficult conditions; the character and quality to win in the show ring; and the temperament to be a family companion. Physical features and mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as an efficient Retriever of game with a stable temperament suitable for a variety of pursuits beyond the hunting environment.

The most distinguishing characteristics of the Labrador Retriever are its short, dense, weather resistant coat; an "otter" tail; a clean-cut head with broad back skull and moderate stop; powerful jaws; and its "kind," friendly eyes, expressing character, intelligence and good temperament.

Above all, a Labrador Retriever must be well balanced, enabling it to move in the show ring or work in the field with little or no effort. The typical Labrador possesses style and quality without over refinement, and substance without lumber or cloddiness. The Labrador is bred primarily as a working gun dog; structure and soundness are of great importance.

Size, Proportion and Substance
Size--The height at the withers for a dog is 22½ to 24½ inches; for a bitch is 21½ to 23½ inches. Any variance greater than ½ inch above or below these heights is a disqualification. Approximate weight of dogs and bitches in working condition: dogs 65 to 80 pounds; bitches 55 to 70 pounds.(some English labs may weigh more as they have more muscle mass and substance)

Proportion--Short-coupled; length from the point of the shoulder to the point of the rump is equal to or slightly longer than the distance from the withers to the ground. Distance from the elbow to the ground should be equal to one half of the height at the withers. The brisket should extend to the elbows, but not perceptibly deeper. The body must be of sufficient length to permit a straight, free and efficient stride; but the dog should never appear low and long or tall and leggy in outline. Substance--Substance and bone proportionate to the overall dog. Light, "weedy" individuals are definitely incorrect; equally objectionable are cloddy lumbering specimens. Labrador Retrievers shall be shown in working condition well-muscled and without excess fat.

Head
Skull--The skull should be wide; well developed but without exaggeration. The skull and foreface should be on parallel planes and of approximately equal length. There should be a moderate stop--the brow slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The brow ridges aid in defining the stop. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks; the bony structure of the skull chiseled beneath the eye with no prominence in the cheek. The skull may show some median line; the occipital bone is not conspicuous in mature dogs. Lips should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall away in a curve toward the throat. A wedge-shape head, or a head long and narrow in muzzle and back skull is incorrect as are massive, cheeky heads. The jaws are powerful and free from snippiness-- the muzzle neither long and narrow nor short and stubby. Nose-- The nose should be wide and the nostrils well-developed. The nose should be black on black or yellow dogs, and brown on chocolates. Nose color fading to a lighter shade is not a fault. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment is a disqualification. Teeth--The teeth should be strong and regular with a scissors bite; the lower teeth just behind, but touching the inner side of the upper incisors. A level bite is acceptable, but not desirable. Undershot, overshot, or misaligned teeth are serious faults. Full dentition is preferred. Missing molars or pre-molars are serious faults. Ears--The ears should hang moderately close to the head, set rather far back, and somewhat low on the skull; slightly above eye level. Ears should not be large and heavy, but in proportion with the skull and reach to the inside of the eye when pulled forward. Eyes--Kind, friendly eyes imparting good temperament, intelligence and alertness are a hallmark of the breed. They should be of medium size, set well apart, and neither protruding nor deep set. Eye color should be brown in black and yellow Labradors, and brown or hazel in chocolates. Black, or yellow eyes give a harsh expression and are undesirable. Small eyes, set close together or round prominent eyes are not typical of the breed. Eye rims are black in black and yellow Labradors; and brown in chocolates. Eye rims without pigmentation is a disqualification.

Neck, Topline and Body
Neck--The neck should be of proper length to allow the dog to retrieve game easily. It should be muscular and free from throatiness. The neck should rise strongly from the shoulders with a moderate arch. A short, thick neck or a "ewe" neck is incorrect. Topline--The back is strong and the topline is level from the withers to the croup when standing or moving. However, the loin should show evidence of flexibility for athletic endeavor. Body--The Labrador should be short-coupled, with good spring of ribs tapering to a moderately wide chest. The Labrador should not be narrow chested; giving the appearance of hollowness between the front legs, nor should it have a wide spreading, bulldog-like front. Correct chest conformation will result in tapering between the front legs that allows unrestricted forelimb movement. Chest breadth that is either too wide or too narrow for efficient movement and stamina is incorrect. Slab-sided individuals are not typical of the breed; equally objectionable are rotund or barrel chested specimens. The underline is almost straight, with little or no tuck-up in mature animals. Loins should be short, wide and strong; extending to well developed, powerful hindquarters. When viewed from the side, the Labrador Retriever shows a well-developed, but not exaggerated forechest. Tail--The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. It should be very thick at the base, gradually tapering toward the tip, of medium length, and extending no longer than to the hock. The tail should be free from feathering and clothed thickly all around with the Labrador's short, dense coat, thus having that peculiar rounded appearance that has been described as the "otter" tail. The tail should follow the topline in repose or when in motion. It may be carried gaily, but should not curl over the back. Extremely short tails or long thin tails are serious faults. The tail completes the balance of the Labrador by giving it a flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail is a disqualification.

Forequarters
Forequarters should be muscular, well coordinated and balanced with the hindquarters. Shoulders--The shoulders are well laid-back, long and sloping, forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees that permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy manner with strong forward reach. Ideally, the length of the shoulder blade should equal the length of the upper arm. Straight shoulder blades, short upper arms or heavily muscled or loaded shoulders, all restricting free movement, are incorrect. Front Legs--When viewed from the front, the legs should be straight with good strong bone. Too much bone is as undesirable as too little bone, and short legged, heavy boned individuals are not typical of the breed. Viewed from the side, the elbows should be directly under the withers, and the front legs should be perpendicular to the ground and well under the body. The elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Tied-in elbows or being "out at the elbows" interfere with free movement and are serious faults. Pasterns should be strong and short and should slope slightly from the perpendicular line of the leg. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Dew claws may be removed. Splayed feet, hare feet, knuckling over, or feet turning in or out are serious faults.

Hindquarters
The Labrador's hindquarters are broad, muscular and well-developed from the hip to the hock with well-turned stifles and strong short hocks. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs are straight and parallel. Viewed from the side, the angulation of the rear legs is in balance with the front. The hind legs are strongly boned, muscled with moderate angulation at the stifle, and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The stifle is strong and there is no slippage of the patellae while in motion or when standing. The hock joints are strong, well let down and do not slip or hyper-extend while in motion or when standing. Angulation of both stifle and hock joint is such as to achieve the optimal balance of drive and traction. When standing the rear toes are only slightly behind the point of the rump. Over angulation produces a sloping topline not typical of the breed. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Cow-hocks, spread hocks, sickle hocks and over-angulation are serious structural defects and are to be faulted.

Coat
The coat is a distinctive feature of the Labrador Retriever. It should be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the hand. The Labrador should have a soft, weather-resistant undercoat that provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. A slight wave down the back is permissible. Woolly coats, soft silky coats, and sparse slick coats are not typical of the breed, and should be severely penalized.

Color
The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. A small white spot on the chest is permissible, but not desirable. White hairs from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling. Black--Blacks are all black. A black with brindle markings or a black with tan markings is a disqualification. Yellow--Yellows may range in color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the ears, back, and underparts of the dog. Chocolate--Chocolates can vary in shade from light to dark chocolate. Chocolate with brindle or tan markings is a disqualification.

Movement
Movement of the Labrador Retriever should be free and effortless. When watching a dog move toward oneself, there should be no sign of elbows out. Rather, the elbows should be held neatly to the body with the legs not too close together. Moving straight forward without pacing or weaving, the legs should form straight lines, with all parts moving in the same plane. Upon viewing the dog from the rear, one should have the impression that the hind legs move as nearly as possible in a parallel line with the front legs. The hocks should do their full share of the work, flexing well, giving the appearance of power and strength. When viewed from the side, the shoulders should move freely and effortlessly, and the foreleg should reach forward close to the ground with extension. A short, choppy movement or high knee action indicates a straight shoulder; paddling indicates long, weak pasterns; and a short, stilted rear gait indicates a straight rear assembly; all are serious faults. Movement faults interfering with performance including weaving; side-winding; crossing over; high knee action; paddling; and short, choppy movement, should be severely penalized.

Temperament
True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed as the "otter" tail. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Labrador has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized.

Disqualifications
1. Any deviation from the height prescribed in the Standard.
2. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment.("winter nose", a seasonal lightening is acceptable)
3. Eye rims without pigment.
4. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail.
5. Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow or chocolate as described in the Standard.

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